Vents Nomades

If we could have a geograpic position of the Heaven it will be in Totoya. Like a new moon shape in the Pacific atoll, a former volcano collapsed leaving a lagoon at its center. Totoya is part of a group of south-east islands  of Viti Levu, Fiji. 3 islands are grouped under the name of Lau. We arrived in Totoya the 1st of May, skirting the coral reefs, natural barrier for those who come from afar to see a piece of paradise. Totoya is the second island we discover while the inhabitants of the island of Moala have opened their doors early, their customs, the Kava sessions, songs, their lives. Here, no tourism, people have chosen isolation. Once a month, however, a boat brings supplies. Moala has 3 villages, 2000 people. The main village, Laroya, has a hospital, police station, post office, primary school, college and high school. The village is well developed compared to the rest of the islands confirms Roko, the administrative representative of the Lau Islands, which accompanies us. For this expedition around these incredible islands preserved, we welcome in Infinty BirdLife International, an organization for the protection of birds of the Pacific. Steve, Jez and Kelera study especially the Fiji Petrel. An endangered bird, which they expect to find on these pristine islands.

In each village stands an imposing church, the missionaries arrived there more than 300 years that people have converted to the faith of Cannibal God. Maybe it's better for us as well!

In 2009, Ngau Island in Fiji, some specimens were found. The species had not seen since 1984 was therefore continue investigations to try to confirm the presence of these sea birds living mainly at night. Like many species, this bird nests in holes in the soil, rocks, or hollow trees. It is therefore extremely vulnerable. Dogs, cats, rats imported by colons are the main threat.

In the distance we heard  lali drums calling for the gathering. We are invited to a kava ceremony and dance. We put our sulong kind of sarong that covers our legs for both men and women. "Bula", "Welcome," which also means life, run up the beach from the main village of toyoi. We sit in a circle on a carpet woven palm leaf. Kava will be served in a half coconut. Kava is a root from the yaqona plant. The roots are ground up by young men into a fine powder that is placed in a very fine fabric. The whole is then immersed in water and until to obtain a grey color. The bowl is presented to us, we clap in our hands, three times, and we get the bowl in the right hand. We must drink the contents, and once made everyone hit 3 times in the hands "maca" (the bowl is empty). Anesthetic sensation then spreads to the lower jaw, and after some hours and several bowl, the body is numb, relax. We can not say that kava has good taste, we must get used to taste of clay and soil. Clapping,  drinking the earth of Fiji, maca, clap again, relax, laugh, Vinaka!

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